Family Walkabout in Perth, WA

After “sivun” weeks in New Zealand, we’ve landed in Western Australia for the next leg of our family gap-year.

We are technically heading towards winter, but it doesn’t feel that way. The trees are green, rather than the reds and oranges that had started to appear in New Zealand. We’ve also gone up a few notches on the temperature gauge compared to our last few weeks in a campervan, and it’s a pleasant warming sun rather than scorching hot.

Sprinklers on suburban lawns came as something of a surprise to the kids. They couldn’t work out why the grass was wet if it hadn’t been raining. Parrots were a pleasing sight too, congregating on tin roofs in our suburban road, before screeching off in a blur of colours.

The only hint that winter may be around the corner is the presence of people wearing a lot more clothes than us, plus a few slightly odd looks in our direction while sun bathing. It is slightly disconcerting to see people walking past in puffer jackets and bobble hats, while we’re applying sun screen.

Apart from the unsurprisingly nice weather, my initial impression of Perth was that it seems huge. We haven’t seen so many people in one place since we left London. Most of New Zealand could move in and you’d hardly notice.

The central business district looks sleek and shiny, with money from vast mining operations helping to pay for towering offices of glass and steel. Daily commuters are transported from the sprawling Perth suburbs by a spiral of rail tracks emerging from Perth Central, and they’re wearing sunglasses rather than carrying umbrellas.

Round the world with my family in Perth, WA

A sprinkling of red brick Victorian buildings look a little lost in the centre of town, but it’s nice to see that some heritage has been preserved amidst the rush to build skyward. The redevelopment of Elizabeth Quay is also providing a better link from downtown to the Swan River, and the kids were more than happy to explore the new playground at Elizabeth Quay Island.

Kangaroo Hunting

Fresh off the plane, we drove to Yanchep National Park to spot some kangaroos, as if to prove to ourselves that we really were in Australia.

Round the world with my family

The kangaroos were happily grazing in an open patch of grass, visible before we’d even managed to get out of our car. They appeared entirely oblivious to our presence, at least up until the point when Lexi started doing her kangaroo impersonation.

We were pleased to see some genuine Aussie wildlife and I was pleased that my research had paid off. For a $12 entry fee and a one-hour drive to Yanchep we felt like true bushmen.

After a few days in Perth, it soon became apparent that kangaroos were around every corner. By early evening, hordes of bouncy marsupials would emerge on practically every available patch of grass. We’ve sadly got to the stage where we’re not even looking for them anymore, they’re just there, where we’d usually expect to see some cows or sheep.

That first sighting at Yanchep was still special though, even if we didn’t really need to make a special visit to see them. The best thing for me was simply the look on the kids’ faces as the kangaroos started hopping towards them.

Kings Park

We were staying in an Airbnb apartment this week, in Subiaco, within easy walking distance of Kings Park. In case you’re wondering, I think it’s pronounced “sue-be-ako”, but it took me nearly all week to work this out.

Kings Park is one-thousand acres of greenery, bang in the middle of Perth. The largest inner city park in the World. Three kids’ play areas. A café. Parrots flying around where there ought to have been pigeons. Probably some snakes in the undergrowth too, but we didn’t see any despite walking around all walk with a big stick.

Kiera has watched too many episodes of Bear Grylls, including 3 new episodes on the plane over. So our approach to all potentially hazardous situations is guided by what Bear would do. In the case of potential snakes, therefore, we go armed with a stick and a couple of small rocks. This is to allow us to stun the animal, before chopping of its head and grilling it for dinner. Thinking it through, we don’t normally carry a machete around with us, so we’d have to remove the head with a sharpened rock. We never got close to seeing any snakes, but better to be safe than sorry.

Kings Park was too large to explore in one day, or even one week, but our daily visits inevitably centered around one or other of the playgrounds. These have been thoughtfully crafted from natural materials found within the park, which I’m sure the kids appreciated.

Hillarys Harbour

Perth is blessed with miles of stunning coastline and even the winter weather was proving nice enough for us to warrant some beach time.

We were guided towards Hillarys Harbour as a safe place for the kids to go swimming. The harbour was indeed perfect for a family day out. There was a playground on the beach, the water was shallow and sheltered, and there was a generally pleasing buzz of seaside activities.

The water looked lovely and we splashed around in the shallows on quite a few occasions. We would have gone further except I kept seeing jellyfish. They were absolutely tiny and nearly entirely see through. They looked very harmless, but my knowledge of jellyfish varieties is non-existent, so I had visions of ruining our trip with a deadly sting.

We’re still taking baby steps getting to grips with being in a country where there are animals that are trying to hurt you.

Keating Family Tour of Freemantle Prison

Round the world with my family

The last hanging took place in 1964, but the doors only closed on Freemantle Prison in 1991, after 136 years of housing criminals. (Took me a little while to work that out on my fingers, after a few months away from my day job, so hope you found it useful).

John Keating arrived in Freemantle on 20th August 1853. Sentenced in Limerick to 15 years for stealing a cow. In 1853 there was no prison yet in Freemantle. The convicts first job was to build their new home, on a hill overlooking the harbour.

The first section of cell block was opened in 1855, allowing prisoners to be transferred from their temporary warehouse accommodation, and then fully opened in 1859.

Convict transportation from the UK continued until 1868, with around 9,500 men deported in total, which happened to include five members of the Keating family according to Freemantle prison records, mostly from Ireland.

We arrived in Freemantle under slightly more favourable conditions. The Qantas flight from Christchurch was very civilised and we were not sleeping in a warehouse. We chose to visit the prison to get a sense of what life would have been like for some of the earliest travelers to this shore.

As you’d probably have guessed, it wasn’t pretty. The original cells were barely big enough to swing a hammock, measuring just 7 feet by 4 feet. The men were effectively stacked in concrete cages, four stories high.

Round the world with my family in WA

Inmates were let out, but only so that their labour could be used to help with public infrastructure works. This practice continued until 1911, and was the reason that the original settlers in Western Australia had lobbied the UK Government to send convicts.

The regime was harsh and discipline was brutal. Solitary confinement was used for periods of up to 90 days, with inmates locked in cells with no light and walls thick enough to stop sound.

Freemantle Prison is now a world heritage site and a potential wedding venue, should you be so inclined to tie the know in the prison chapel. I was glad to escape after an hour. The kids were keen to embark on another tour, recounting escape stories, but we promised to come back another day.

Round the world with my family in Freemantle

Next Time

After a week of city life, it’s time to get back to the country. We’re planning a mini road trip to the bottom edge of Western Australia, starting with a few days in Albany. This is “mini” by Australian road trip standards because Albany is only 280 miles from Perth, so it’s practically the next town over.

Twelve Nights In A Tin Can, NZ South Island (Part 2)

The first half of our New Zealand road-trip took us from Christchurch to Te Anau, including an amazing visit to see penguins on the Otago Peninsula.

The weather has been very kind to us so far, despite the fact that we are heading into late Autumn and snow is visible on higher peaks. What’s more, after a week trapped in a moving vehicle, we’re all still talking to each other and keen to push on to our next destination.

Day 7 – Te Anau to Milford Sound (70 miles / 2-4 hours driving)

I have been looking forward to seeing Milford Sound since I first started planning our round the world trip. We set aside a whole day to get there, even though you could complete the miles in a couple of hours if you didn’t feel the need to stop.

There are no shops in Milford, or petrol stations for that matter, so after a re-supply in Te Anau we set off at a leisurely pace down the dead-end road. We were in absolutely no hurry. I barely got the camper above 60 kmph.

The road wasn’t busy and it was nice to be travelling at such a relaxed pace. The slower speed also suited the camper better, as the bone shacking vibrations calmed down a little and fewer pieces of crockery were flying around than usual.

The weather forecast for the day ahead was for some rain, followed by some really torrential rain, with a few showers thrown in for good measure. Milford Sound is renowned for being wet, and I kept telling everyone that rain was good because it would top up all the waterfalls.

Pretty sure my constant optimism can be somewhat annoying, but I feel it’s my job to keep up morale when the kids are wondering why on earth we are “going on holiday to somewhere rainy”.

Driving along the road to Milford Sound, nearly every bend seems to reveals a stunning panorama. The approaching clouds seem to make it even more atmospheric, and it feels as though you are approaching a hidden world.

Family travel blog - drive to Milford Sound

To get into Milford Sound requires driving through the 1.2km long, Homer Tunnel. Only opened in 1953, this is a one-way access route, with traffic lights at either end to control entry. The tunnel literally looks as though it has just been blasted out of the rock, with no cement lining and water dripping from the roof.

Travelling through the Homer Tunnel, on a steep downwards incline, we emerged into a world of waterfalls.

Family travel blog NZ

A bunch of Kea birds were gathered at the side of the road, clearly used to posing for photos. One of them jumped onto a nearby car and started to eat some plastic roof trim, so we decided to move on.

We got out to stretch our legs at the Chasm, which is around 10km before the end of the road. Kiera decided to sport a little off the shoulder arm-sling, following some over exuberant trampolining the day before. Luckily this didn’t impair either her ability to walk or her ability to complain about having to walk.

Family travel blog - driving to Milford Sound

There is a ten minute loop walk to reach the Chasm, which is a spectacular series of carved rocks, formed by torrents of water flowing through a narrow gully. The water was so powerful that you could hear it long before it became visible. Even the kids were impressed once we got there, which is saying something given that there was no gift shop for miles around.

Family travel blog

We stayed the night at Milford Sound Lodge, which has powered RV sites set amidst lush rainforest. The idea was to catch a morning cruise tomorrow, thus avoiding the crush of tour buses from Queenstown that disgorge people onto the lunchtime sailings.

Family travel blog at Milford Sound

The rainforest setting didn’t disappoint, as the heavens opened nearly all night. In theory this was excellent news, making for even more spectacular waterfalls along Milford Sound tomorrow. In practice, it also made it quite tricky to sleep, given that it sounded as though the rain was about to come through the campervan roof at any moment.

Day 8 – Milford Sound Cruise / Drive to Queenstown (180 miles / 4 hours driving)

We were booked onto the 10.30am nature cruise with Real Journeys, which would take us down Milford Sound to the Tasman Sea. And hopefully back again.

We were at the quay by 9.40am, keeping up my track record of always arriving way too early to catch any sort of transport connection. The kids are already fond of spending at least 3 hours in every airport we visit, on the basis that I refuse to arrive “late”.

As hoped, there weren’t any tour buses in the harbour when we set sail, so we had the boat nearly all to ourselves.

Family travel blog

The scale of Milford Sound is difficult to comprehend, because on all sides you’re surrounded by mountains rising vertically from the water, up to peaks reaching a mile high.

500 foot tall waterfalls appeared relatively small set against the surrounding vastness. It was only when the boat pulled over for a closer look that you could get some sense of perspective.

Family travel blog Milford Sound

We got incredibly lucky today. The overnight rain had died down, leaving in its place an amazing series of waterfalls.

Family travel blog at Milford Sound

We also spotted some fur seals relaxing on the rocks, which was a real bonus.

Family travel blog

The two-hour cruise was over too quickly and we could have happily stayed on the water all day.

Family travel blog at Milford Sound

Once back on dry land, we weaved our way past the newly arrived gaggle of tour buses, and hit the road to Queenstown.

Queenstown came as something of a shock to the system. After a serene morning in Milford Sound, I wasn’t prepared for the bright lights of town. I’ve got used to arriving into places with one high street and a small handful of people. This has suited me fine.

Queenstown seemed too busy for my liking. There were traffic lights, which hadn’t been necessary for the last few hundred miles of our trip, and an over abundance of stores selling bungee jumps.

It was dark by the time we arrived, but we set-off for a short walk around town to get our bearings and find some food. The town seemed more manageable once we had ditched the campervan and we were looking forward to exploring further in the day light.

Day 9 – Queenstown

Queenstown was much quieter at 9am than 9pm.

We spent the morning catching up on some laundry. Not spectacularly interesting I’ll admit, but after more than a week of camping, perfectly necessary.

Kiera had spotted a leaflet for the Queenstown luge ride back in Te Anau, which she had been faithfully carrying around ever since. She wasn’t quite so sure about the idea when she saw the gondola ride that was necessary to reach the top of the mountain, from where the luge ride descended.

At these moments, we’ve found that the best course of action is to move quickly. So we bundled her into the gondola before she had too much time to over think the health and safety implications of riding in a plastic box, attached to a bit of string, up a very steep hill.

Family travel blog

The luge ride was great fun. There was a beginners track suitable for the whole family, and a steeper track that meant I got to go really fast and pretend to be a racing driver.

Family travel blog Queenstown luge

The views back across Queenstown from the top of the gondola were also pretty special.

Family travel blog

After exhausting our driving skills, it was time to ease off the adrenaline and so we made our way back down the mountain for a few beers in Queenstown.

There were plenty of bars that we could have spent hours exploring in more detail, but bellies were starting to rumble. We headed for the long queue of people snaking out of Ferg’s Burgers to see what all the fuss was about. We had a very tasty burger and sat talking with a family from Canada who were also travelling around.

We learned that there were two potential routes to reach Wanaka, our destination for tomorrow, and our friends from Canada recommended taking the scenic drive across the Crown range. This turned out to be very good advice.

Day 10 – Queenstown to Wanaka (75 miles / 1.5 hours driving)

The scenic route between Queenstown and Wanaka involves winding up to an altitude of 1,100 metres across the Crown range. The road was open, which was a good start, but it makes you think twice that somebody has to decide whether the road is dangerous enough to be closed.

The drive rewarded us with some gorgeous views back to Queenstown and the surrounding mountains.

Family travel blog Crown Range

Puzzling World awaited us at Wanaka, with a giant outdoor maze and a series of indoor illusion rooms. We tackled the maze and appeared to be making good progress, until a highly irritating final corner kept us walking around in circles for what felt like days.

The illusion rooms provided some good photo opportunities, but I was keen to get back into the fresh air after an hour.

Family travel blog

Wanaka proved to be another lovely spot, with a high street of cafes and bars fronting onto a crystal clear lakefront. Situated around 300 metres above sea level, the town is close to some good ski fields, but for now the only snow was on nearby mountain tops.

Day 11 – Wanaka

With a whole day to explore Wanaka, we decided to hire some bikes and cycle around the lakefront.

What was supposed to be a gentle meander along a flat cycle path, soon turned into a five-hour expedition, involving more hills than I’d have preferred. The views were so amazing around each new corner, that we kept pressing ahead when we sensibly ought to have turned back.

Family travel blog

Feeling reinvigorated, but also a little exhausted, we hobbled back into town for some very late lunch at the Big Fig.

The remainder of our afternoon was spent recovering, before we hunkered down for a chilly night in the tin can.

Day 12 – Wanaka to Geraldine (180 miles / 4 hours driving)

It was time to start making some progress back towards Christchurch, as we have a date with a warm hotel bed.

We opted to take the inland route via Lake Tekapo and through MacKenzie country. This was New Zealand as I will remember it, with endless rolling hills and farmland, interspersed with unbelievable mountain views.

Most of the route was covered in low cloud, which meant we didn’t catch a good glimpse of Mt Cook, but the clouds lifted just enough at Lake Tekapo to afford us our last close-up view of the southern alps.

Family travel blog in New Zealand

We decided to stay the night in Geraldine. A quiet country town, named after an Irishman, James FitzGerald. We treated ourselves to some typical Irish fare, with a curry at the Royal India, which made up for several nights of beans on toast in the campervan.

Day 13 – Geraldine to Christchurch (80 miles / 2 hours driving)

A short final drive today, to give ourselves a chance to condense all of our belongings back into two suitcases. To make the job less stressful, we headed straight into Christchurch and parked up opposite the Margaret Mahy playground. While we should have been supervising the kids, we instead made short work of the packing.

Twelve nights in the campervan felt about right for our first attempt at living in the wild. We had an amazing trip and the van was the best way for us to get around so many places in a relatively short space of time.

Compared to the rest of our time in NZ, we also spent a little less money on day-to-day living costs, because we always had a fridge on hand to meet the kids’ voracious feeding time requirements.

We had one final night in Christchurch, staying in a hotel near the airport, ready for an early morning flight to Perth. It felt strange to be living back indoors, but it was nice to have a long shower in our own private bathroom.

Next Time

We’ve come to the end of our time in New Zealand. I have been looking forward to this visit for so long that I am sad to be leaving, but already thinking about how we can plan a return visit.

We’re heading to Australia next, starting with a week in Perth, before heading down to the southern coast of Western Australia.

Flying Visit to Kuala Lumpur

It didn’t feel quite right to be heading back to the airport after just 36 hours in Dubai, but we’d booked our flight to Kuala Lumpur several months ago, and were keen to get our trip back on track.

Qatar airways offered the cheapest option out of Dubai, but required a short hop back to Doha.

Doha is the most expensive looking airport I’ve ever seen. It makes Heathrow look like something from the 19th century. Everywhere was polished marble or gleaming metal, and the kids were satisfied to find a playground to burn off some steam.

It was an overnight flight to Kuala Lumpur, but fortunately the novelty of seat back screens had worn off enough to allow the kids to get a couple of hours’ sleep.

We’re using Airbnb for most of our accommodation on this trip, and our place in Kuala Lumpur was perfect. It was in a great location on Jalan Ceylon, with views across to both the KL and Petronas Towers. It gave us more space than we’d find in a hotel room and there was a shared pool.

What’s more, the kids think it’s great fun when we arrive at new places and need to play treasure hunt to locate apartment keys.

Round the world with my family in Kuala Lumpur

Meal Times On The Road

Having now jumped forward 8 hours from London time in the space of a few days, it was still feeling slightly unusual to be having dinner at breakfast time.

On our first foray down Jalan Ceylon’s main street, the kids were desperate for something familiar to eat. This usually means they want Indian curry, roast chicken, or pizza / pasta.

One of the beauties of travelling with kids, I think, is that the occasional compromise is necessary to preserve harmony. Sometimes this may come at the expense of experiencing new things. Sometimes, perhaps we could push the kids harder to move out of their comfort zone. I suspect it’s a question of choosing your moments though.

For example, the kids were initially reluctant to leave school and all their friends to come travelling. After much discussion and lots of encouragement, they appear to be settling very well into their new way of life.

But it’s not always possible to put so much effort into every decision, and not all decisions are so important in the grand scheme of things.

So on our first night in Asia, we had dinner at a place called ‘The Italian Market’. The kids were happy and the food was very nice.

Round the world with my family in Kuala Lumpur

KLCC Park

On our first full day in town, we ventured across to KLCC. The kids got to spend some time in the huge playground and paddling pools, while I got to take a trip up the Petronas Towers.

Round the world with my family in KLCC park

Kiera is happiest in water and least happy in a lift going up tall buildings. Lexi is extremely happy nearly anywhere, apart from when we’re asking her to eat vegetables. So Lexi and I ventured up the towers to take in the views and walk across the sky bridge, while Kiera kept her feet planted firmly to the ground floor.

Round the world with my family at Petronas Towers

Bandage Opening Ceremony

It was now one week since Lexi’s operation and so time for her bandage to come off.

Anja deals with all medical related matters as part of our neat division of labour. My contribution was to take some photos of the big moment.

Family-Travel-Blog-Hand Surgery Aftermath

Lexi was surprised that her hand wasn’t instantly back to normal, and she seemed a bit scared by the sight of her stitches.

More worrying was the fact that her injured finger seemed to be stuck in a bent position, much as it had been before the operation. We told ourselves that this was just because her hand had been stuck in the same position for a week and needed some time to straighten out.

This didn’t come as much comfort to Lexi, who now hand a hand covered in scars and sore fingers.

This moment did at least provide us with the best quote of the trip so far, courtesy of our walking wounded six-year-old, who decided that her hand “would at least be useful for Halloween”.

Next Time

New Zealand here we come. Plan is to start off from Auckland and travel down and around both islands. Really looking forward to exploring Auckland, but also getting out into the heart of New Zealand.

More importantly, looking forward to Lexi hopefully regaining full use of her hand.

Round the World with My Family: We’re Off (sort of)

We’re Off

After many months of planning and lots of last minute packing, it feels strange to finally be on our way. We have decided to take a year away to travel round the world as a family, but at the moment the prospect of taking a whole year away hasn’t quite sunk in.

We kicked off our journey with a relatively short trip to see my parents in Devon. We managed to squeeze in a trip to the Donkey Sanctuary at Sidmouth, along with a couple of cakes from Nanny & Granddad’s bakery, before catching a train up to London.

Family Travel Blog - Donkey Sanctuary

This was the first real test of our packing, with all of our stuff needing to be squeezed into travel mode so that we could actually get onto the train without leaving a trail of clothes and soft toys.

A slightly stressful morning revealed that we had in fact packed marginally more than originally intended. This was a foreseen risk, but we’d planned a few gentle weeks at the beginning of our trip to iron out any teething issues. At least that’s how I’m seeing things, whereas I think the rest of my family think I’m simply being ludicrous in demanding that we fit everything for a year into a couple of medium suitcases.

London to Lanzarote

Due to finishing work slightly earlier than expected, we decided to spend a few days sight seeing in London followed by a week doing nothing on the beach in Lanzarote. We will then be making our way out to New Zealand during March, stopping off in Rome, Dubai and Kuala Lumpur on the way.

We are mainly using AirBnB accommodation for our trip, which is so far working out very well. We stayed in a perfectly located flat in central London, just a couple of tube stops from the Science Museum, and our place in Lanzarote was fine as soon as the kids spied the shared pool.

Family Travel Blog Lanzarote

Medical Storytime

However, as you know, life is never entirely straight forward. Our youngest daughter has developed a problem with one of her fingers, which has begun locking into place and not budging. She’s had “clicky fingers” in the past, but they’ve usually resolved themselves pretty quickly.

So, alongside having some fun, we’ve also been on a mini-tour of English hospitals, in a bid to find somebody who might be able to help. We started with a visit to our local hospital, who suggested doing nothing. Whilst beautifully simple, this option had a fairly major drawback, in that it didn’t actually help in any way whatsoever.

And so, with her finger still locked after six days, we decided to try the delights of Torbay hospital. The doctor we saw was very kind, but the only remedy he could offer was to straighten her finger using brute force, with some laughing gas to help numb the pain. The laughing gas was great and my daughter left with a straight finger.

Two days later and the finger locked again while we were in London. We decided to spend another few hours in St Thomas’ hospital to see if they had any more advanced solutions. We left after six hours, with input from several doctors, but all we really had to show for this was a temporarily straightened out finger and lots of sticking tape.

We are now following our daughter around with various bits of splint and extra sticking tape trying to avoid a repeat injury, while she tears around the swimming pool laughing. It’s good that she’s coping so well.

I am not coping quite so well, as all our well laid travel plans for the first couple of months on the road start to look a bit shaky before we’ve really got going. I was smugly confident a few weeks ago that all of my planning would help us ease into the travelling lifestyle, at which point we could become a bit more carefree on the advanced booking front. However, it now seems that we should have been more carefree from the start, and avoided the complication of having to consider how we fit medical treatment around our itinerary.

Before heading further afield, we decided to make a quick pit-stop back in Bristol to see a hand specialist, who I was hoping would tell us to stop worrying and that everything would sort itself out.

We’re Back Again…

This brings us fully up to date, as we arrived back into Bristol yesterday and saw our latest doctor today. He has recommended that Lexi will need surgery on her hands to properly fix the problem with her funny finger. This wasn’t what we necessarily wanted to hear, but at least we now have a clear diagnosis and course of treatment. Our next challenge is to see if we can get the surgery completed quickly while we’re back home, or organise for the procedure to take place when we reach New Zealand.

Next Time

I am hoping that our next update will be less medically focused and written while we are sat somewhere in either Dubai or Kuala Lumpur.

Glorious Weekend in Seville

I love travelling with my kids – taking them on adventures, opening their eyes to wonderful new sights, exploring exotic flavours – but isn’t it also amazing to travel without having to bring colouring books!

And so it was when I managed to persuade my parents to enjoy a weekend with their adorable grandchildren, while Anja and I endured the hardships of a weekend in Seville.

I am currently trying to learn Spanish (Habla Espanol?), which influenced my decision to visit Seville as soon as I realised that we had a free weekend to play with. What also helped was the fact that the weather in Seville is marginally better than the weather in Bristol and we both liked the idea of enjoying a nice cold beer with our tapas in the sun.

We arrived on a glorious Friday evening and made our way to our hotel, through a crowd of Seville football fans on their way to a home game. I was already feeling impressed with myself for having negotiated the taxi ride without having to resort to English or pointing at my guide-book.

Our hotel looked lovely, but we decided to make a quick turnaround when we arrived, so that we could make the most of our first night exploring Seville. We were still on “normal” mealtimes at this stage and feeling hungry by around 7pm, so decided to tackle our first tapas bar. Now was the chance to see whether my Spanish could navigate the menu, at least well enough to avoid ordering anything too outlandish.

A few slices of ham and cheese (really sticking to basics at this stage), and a small tumbler of beer later, and we were ready to really get going. We were staying in the centre of Seville, in the Santa Cruz area, which consists of a maze of old streets and picturesque little squares. This of course meant that we had absolutely no clue where we were going as our map was next to useless in the middle of this labyrinth, but it did at least mean that I could have a night off from being chief holiday map-reader, and so we just wandered.

It was evidently perfectly normal for families to be out together, with kids of all ages, taking a stroll through town and eating an evening meal, at what to me was already approaching bedtime. It didn’t take us long to adjust to the Spanish meal times, where lunch is usually eaten around 2-3pm and dinner can be anything from 10pm onwards, and it seems to make sense to eat a little later when the weather is very hot in the day, but I am still puzzled as to how anybody manages to wake up for work or school in the morning when kids are buzzing around eating ice-cream at midnight.

We hadn’t been to Seville before, so alongside baffling the locals with my mangled, beginner’s Spanish, we also had to make sure that we didn’t miss any of the major cultural highlights:

Seville Cathedral & Giralda – just around the corner from our hotel, so we headed here first thing on Saturday morning and got instantly nabbed by a tour guide. This turned out well, because it meant we skipped into a shorter queue and had a much more informed visit than I was planning. Definitely worth a visit just for the sheer scale of the cathedral and the views from the top of the Giralda. The Giralda is the bell tower of the cathedral, and instead of having steps to reach the top, there is a long spiral ramp, which was built to allow horses to carry people to the top – this wasn’t on offer today though.

Alcazar -this is a moorish built royal palace and UNESCO world heritage site, with amazing geometric patterns and impressive gardens. The gardens alone are worth exploring, providing some peace and tranquility within the centre of the modern city.

Family travel blog

Metropol Parasol – at the other end of the spectrum and across town, is what claims to be the world’s largest wooden built structure, which was completed in 2011. Known locally as the mushrooms, you can climb onto the top of the parasol for great views across town.

image

Flamenco – we couldn’t visit Seville without seeing a flamenco show. Los Gallos was hidden down a maze of back streets in Santa Cruz, not far from where we were staying, but still only discovered after numerous wrong turns and a few surprised directions from helpful passers-by. Los Gallos were running two shows a night, which required booking as the small room was packed. We both enjoyed the show, although not sure we really had much clue as to what was happening.

Alongside the cultural highlights, the real beauty of Seville was in the maze of back streets and tapas bars, which we wandered endlessly to find our next meal. One place we kept returning to was the old fish market – mercado lonja del barranco – which was alongside the river next to the puenta triana. The market contained around 20 different food and drink stalls, selling everything from fresh mussels to fried eggs, but the simple potato tortillas were my favourite, washed down with a cold thimble of cerveza.

Journey

Blog at WordPress.com.

Up ↑

%d bloggers like this: